WARNING! DO NOT SAND, DRY SWEEP, DRY SCRAPE, DRILL, SAW, BEAD BLAST ORMECHANICALLY CHIP OR PULVERISE EXISTING RESILIENT FLOORING, BACKING, LINING FELT , ASPHALTIC “ CUT BACK” ADHESIVES OR OTHER ADHESIVES.
 
These products may contain either asbestos fibers and/or crystalline silica. Avoid creating dust. Inhalation of such dust is a cancer and respiratory tract hazard. Smoking by individuals exposed to asbestos fibers greatly increases the risk of serious bodily harm. Unless positively certain that the product is a non‐asbestos‐containing material, you must presume it contains asbestos. Regulations may require that the material be tested to determine asbestos content and may govern the removal and disposal of material. See current edition of the Resilient Floor Covering Institute (RFCI) publication Recommended Work Practices for Removal of Resilient Floor Coverings for detailed information and instructions on removing all resilient covering structures. For current information go to www.rfci.com.

• New concrete slabs must be dry. Maximum moisture level per CaCl test method is 8 lbs. per 1000 in 24 hr. Maximum level for ASTM 2170 In-situ Relative humidity test method - 85%.
• Do no install over concrete with a history of high moisture or hydrostatic conditions.
• Maximum acceptable ph level of 10 or less
• The final responsibility for determining if the concrete is dry enough for installation of the flooring lies with the floor covering installer.
• Holes, grooves, expansion joints and other depressions must be filled with a Portland based patching and levelling product, and troweled smooth and feathered even with the surrounding surface.

Radiant Heating: Radiant-heated subfloor systems can be concrete, wood or a combination of both.

The heating systems components must have a minimum of 1/2" separation from the flooring product. The system must be on and operational for at least 2 weeks prior to installation to reduce residual moisture. Three days prior to installation lower the temperature to 65 degrees, after installation gradually increase the temperature in increments of 5° F to avoid overheating. Maximum operating temperature should never exceed 85°F. Use of an in-floor temperature sensor is recommended to avoid overheating. Contact the manufacturer of your radiant heating system for further recommendations. 

• Electric Radiant Floors: consist of electric cables (or) mats of electrically conductive materials mounted on the subfloor below the floor covering. Mesh systems are typically embedded in thin-set. When embedding the system components, use cementitious patching and leveling compounds that meet or exceed Shaw’s maximum moisture level and pH requirements.  Use of gypsum-based patching and/or leveling compounds which contain Portland or high alumina cement and meet or exceed the compressive strength of 3,000 psi are acceptable.
• Hydronic Radiant Floors: pump heated water from a boiler through tubing laid in a pattern under the flooring. Typically installed in channels under a wooden subfloor (or) imbedded in concrete slabs. Requires the installer follow a specific nailing pattern to avoid penetration of the heat system.

C. EXISTING FLOOR COVERINGS

1. VersaLock flooring can be installed over most existing hard–surface floor coverings, provided that the existing floor surface is clean, flat dry and structurally sound.
2. Quarry tile, terrazzo and ceramic tile - Use caution with highly embossed tile. This type of tile plus grout joints should be filled with a high quality cementitious patching product.
3. When the removal of the existing resilient floor covering is not an option then it must be covered with an embossing levelling compound or an equivalent in order to provide a smooth subfloor surface. Otherwise, telegraphing may occur.
4. Existing sheet vinyl floors should not be heavily cushioned and not exceed more than one layer in thickness. Soft underlayment and soft substrates will diminish VersaLock's inherent strength in resisting indentations.
5. Installation is NOT allowed over any type of carpet.

III. INSTALLATION

VersaLock plank flooring is designed to be installed utilizing the floating method only. Never secure the planks to the subfloor. Do not install cabinets or fixed objects on top of the flooring. Proper expansion space is required. Undercut all doorjambs. Do not fasten wall mouldings and or transition strips to the planks.

1. Before you start with the installation, it is important to determine the layout of the flooring. Proper planning and layout will prevent having narrow plank widths at wall junctures or very short length pieces at the end of rows.
2. As with all plank products, install the planks parallel to the longest exterior wall.
3. Determine if the starter row will need to be cut. If the first row of planks does not need to be trimmed in width, it will be necessary to cut off the unsupported tongue so that a clean, solid edge shows towards the wall.
4. Installation of the product must start from the left side of the room, working to the right when working in front of the planks or facing the starting wall.
5. Install the second plank in the row by angling the end tongue into the end groove of the first plank. Be careful not to bend the corner of the plank. Maintain an expansion gap of approximately 5/16" - 8mm from the wall. Start the second row by cutting a plank to the desired length. Keep in mind that the plank must not be shorter than 6" (15cm) to achieve the best appearance.
6. Install the first plank in the second row by inserting the long side tongue into the groove of the plank in the first row. This is best done with a low angle of the plank. Maintain pressure into the side seam as you rotate the plank to the subfloor. Install the second plank in the second row by inserting the short end tongue into the previously installed plank groove. Align the plank so that the long side tongue tip is positioned just over the groove lip of the plank in the first row. Working from the end seam, at a low angle, insert the long tongue into the groove of the adjoining plank. Very little force is required to seat the tongue into the groove. You should feel the tongue lock into the groove.
7. Work across the length of the room installing planks along the wall in the first row and then aligning the planks in the second row. It is critical to keep these two rows straight and square, as they are the “foundation” for the rest of the installation. Check squareness and straightness often.
8. Cut the last plank in the first row and leave an expansion gap of around 5/16" - 8mm. Planks may be cut with a utility knife using the “score and snap” technique. The leftover of this plank may be used to start the third row if it’s a minimum 6" - 15cm long.
9. Continue installing planks and make sure to achieve a random appearance with end pieces of minimum 6" - 15cm. Check that all planks are fully engaged; if a slight gapping is found, the gap can be tapped together by using a tapping block and a scrap of flooring to cover the tapping block in order to avoid damages on the planks.
10. When fitting under door casings, etc., the flexibility and convenient connection of VersaLock becomes evident. If necessary, a flat pull bar may be used to assist in locking the planks.
11. When fitting around obstacles or into irregular spaces, planks can be cut easily and cleanly using a utility knife with a sharp blade. It is often beneficial to make a cardboard template of the area and transfer this pattern to the plank.
12. Protect all exposed edges of the flooring by installing wall moulding and/or transition strips. Make sure that no plank will be secured in any way to the sub floor.
13. For wet areas such as bathrooms caulk the perimeter of the floor with a silicone caulk.
14. Protect the finished flooring from exposure to direct sunlight to reduce fading and thermal expansion.
15. Do not use tape to secure floor protection during construction or renovation. Use ram board or similar to protect the floor. 

IV. REPAIRS

1. VersaLock plank flooring is tough and durable; however, if a plank becomes damaged, it can be replaced. If the damaged plank is along the perimeter of the room, the easiest technique is to disconnect the planks until the damaged plank is removed. Replace the plank and reassemble the planks. If it is impractical to disconnect and reassemble the flooring, the following procedure should be followed:
2. It’s recommended to use painters tape along the sides of the board to be replaced to prevent damage to the adjoining boards.
3. Using a Utility Knife, cut through the center of the damaged plank, running the length of the plank.
4. Carefully remove cut pieces from the insert. You can use a utility knife to remove the pieces from the floor. Clean up any debris from opening area.
5. To prepare replacement plank. Cut and remove tongue from the long side and the short end of the plank. This can be accomplished by using a Utility knife.
6. Using a Utility Knife, remove approximately 1.5 inches of the groove on the long side of the plank from the tongue end.
7. Apply a small bead of super glue (Ethyl Cyanoacrylate adhesive) to the groove of the boards in the floor.
8. Insert replacement plank, locking the long side joint (groove side) into the existing floor. NOTE: The tongue end of the replacement plank will overlap the existing floor prior to be fully inserted.
9. Using a scrap piece of plank as a tapping device, tap the groove end into place. Insert the blade of a Utility knife on the opposite side to lift and adjust the end as it is being tapped into place.
10. Place a weight on the plank until the adhesive sets. (Shaw recommends minimum 6-8 hours).